5 Best Places To Experience Belgrade’s Kafane

Belgrade’s kafane are more than cafés—they’re a living, breathing part of the city. Here are the top 5 venues where food, music, history, and local spirit meet.

1. Znak Pitanja – The Oldest in Belgrade

Located in the Old Town, this wooden-roofed gem has greeted guests since 1823. It keeps an authentically rustic feel. Patrons enjoy slow-cooked meals by the wood stove—like goulash or pork with cabbage. Many praise its cozy atmosphere and strong rakija. But note: kitchen hours are early and tables often fill quickly

2. Tri šešira – Bohemian Landmark

This Skadarlija staple dates back to 1864. Inside, the vibe is lively and slightly chaotic—with folk musicians roaming tables. Expect classic barbecue dishes: pljeskavica, sausages, sarma. Portions are generous, service can be slow, and locals love it .

3. Dva Jelena – Where Tito Once Dined

Another Skadarlija favorite, “Two Deer” has a rich history of hosting artists, officials, and even Tito. It’s known for grilled ribs and a rare mulled rakija. The mix of live music and historic walls makes it a must-see

4. Kafana Pavle Korčagin – For the True Local Feel

A bit off the beaten path, this spot is named after a famous literary character. It serves hearty Serbian staples: stews, grilled meats, homemade rakija. Tourists are fewer here—this place feels purely local, especially in the evenings .

5. Klub književnika – Literary and Historic

Since 1946, this basement kafana has hosted Serbia’s writers, politicians, and thinkers. It was once for members only—but opened to the public decades ago. The interior is homespun yet elegant. Expect soups, salads, and inspired conversation in a venue steeped in history

Tips to Make the Most of Your Kafana Experience

  1. Go early or book ahead — Popular kafane fill up fast.
  2. Bring cash for tips — Service often isn’t included in the bill
  3. Pair food with rakija — Warm fruit brandy enhances every bite.
  4. Stay for the music — Traditional folk, live strings, or brass bands lift the energy.

Why Kafane Matter in 2025

Kafanas today still carry layers of history—Ottoman origins, Austro-Hungarian elegance, bohemian flair, modern creativity. They’re places to meet, debate, toast, eat, think—and stay late. They connect eras and hold the city’s heart in a friendly clink of glasses

How to Plan Your Evening

Start with wine and appetizers in Skadarlija at Tri šešira. Move on to Dva Jelena for meat and music. Later, grab a late-night rakija in Znak Pitanja. Add Klub književnika for intellectual ambience or Pavle Korčagin for a local low-key close of night.

Final Thoughts

These five kafane showcase Belgrade’s soul—from hand-hewn wood and wood-fired kitchens to literary chatter and foot-tapping tunes. Each has its own flavor, vibe, and history. So take your time. Eat slowly. Let the city’s true rhythm wash over you.

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